How to choose carabiner(Via REI CO OP)

Different climbing tasks require different kinds of carabiners. To choose and use them properly, you must first understand the differences between them. There are three main areas to consider:

• Shape
• Gate type
• Size, weight and strength

Once you understand the differences, think about your needs. What type of climbing you do and how you’ll use the carabiner will determine what carabiner you buy.

Carabiner Shapes

Asymmetric D Shape

By far the most popular design out there, asymmetric D carabiners (sometimes called offset D or modified D carabiners) work like regular D’s, but they’re slightly smaller at one end to further reduce weight. Asymmetric ‘biners generally have larger gate openings than regular Ds, which makes clipping them even easier. But they don’t have as much inside room as similarly sized Ds or ovals. Asymmetrical carabiners make up the vast majority of the carabiners that most climbers own.

Pros:

• Large gate opening
• Strong and light

Cons:

• More expensive than other shapes
• Not as strong as the D shape

Pear Shape

Similar to the asymmetric D shape, pear-shaped carabiners have large gate openings to allow easy clipping of ropes, knots and gear. Pear-shaped carabiners are used primarily for belaying and rappelling, but also can be used at anchor points for top roping or multipitch climbing.

You’ll sometimes hear these called HMS carabiners, and some are even marked with HMS on the spine. HMS indicates that the carabiner is designed with a wide, more symmetrical top that works well with a Münter hitch.

Pros:

• Large gate opening
• Designed specifically for belaying and rappelling

Cons:

• Heavier and more expensive than most other shapes
• Not as strong as D and asymmetric D shapes

D Shape

D-shaped ‘biners are excellent for most kinds of climbing. They hold loads off-center toward the stronger, non-gated side, so a smaller, lighter D carabiner can be just as strong as a larger oval.

Pros:

• Strongest shape
• Larger gate opening than oval shape

Cons:

• Smaller gate opening and heavier than asymmetric D shape
• More expensive than oval shape

Oval 

Oval carabiners are the original style. They’re versatile and affordable, though not quite as strong as other shapes. Oval ‘biners have smooth, uniform top and bottom curves to limit load shifting. They offer more gear-holding capacity than D-shape ‘biners and their symmetry permits them to be used for carabiner-brake rappels.

They’re ideal for aid climbing because they center loads at their curve; runners won’t shift under load. 

Pros:

• Uniform shape limits load shifting
• Hold more gear than D-shape carabiners

 Cons:

• Smaller gate opening and heavier than other shapes
• Not as strong as other shapes

Carabiner Gate Types

Straight Gate Carabiners

Standard straight gates are strong, durable and easy to use. They are very common and are used for a variety of purposes. Carabiners with straight gates are found on quickdraws and are frequently used for racking gear, such as cams and stoppers. As the name implies, they’re perfectly straight from pivot point to end. Like most other types, they’re spring-loaded to open easily when pushed, but close automatically when released.

Some straight-gate carabiners are also keylock carabiners. A keylock carabiner has a smooth notch where the nose of the carabiner and the gate interact. This keeps the carabiner from hooking and catching on your harness gear loop, bolt hangers and other slings, any of which can be quite annoying. You’ll likely pay a little extra for this feature, but it’s a nice upgrade.

Pros:

• Durable and easy to use
• Can feature a keylock nose for snag-free clipping

Cons:

• Heavier than wiregate

Bent Gate 

These strong, durable gates have a concave shape that makes clipping a rope quick and easy; they are generally reserved for the rope-end of quickdraws.

Like straight-gate carabiners, some bent-gate carabiners are also keylock carabiners. 

Bent-gate carabiners typically have an asymmetric shape.

Pros:

• Make clipping the rope easy
• Durable
• Can feature a keylock for snag-free clipping

Cons:

• Heavier than wiregate

Wiregate Carabiners 

Wiregate ‘biners use a loop of stainless steel wire for a gate, which decreases overall weight and eliminates the need for extra parts found in conventional gates. Wiregate designs also allow for larger gate openings. They are less likely to freeze up than other gate styles in cold, wet weather.

Although wiregates don’t appear as strong as conventional styles, most are. Also, due to the lower mass in the gate itself, wiregates are less likely to vibrate open during a fall. (This is galled gate lash. For more about gate lash, see below.)

Pros:

• Lightweight
• Help reduce gate lash
• Less likely to freeze shut

Cons:

• Can be less durable than solid straight and bent gates

Locking Gate Carabiners

Locking carabiners have gates that can be locked in the closed position to provide extra protection against accidental gate openings. They feature either a manual (a.k.a. screw-lock) or auto-locking system.

Screw-lock gates require the user to manually screw the sleeve onto the gate to lock it.

Auto-lock carabiners automatically lock whenever the gate is closed.

Locking carabiners, though heavier than nonlocking models, are the only choice for use with a belay/rappel device. You should also consider using them at belay stations and at critical protection placements. They offer a more secure attachment and enhance your peace of mind. 

Pros:

• Locking gate adds security

Cons:

• Heavier than other styles